Life in the peaceable Cherifian Kingdom
The windy and cat-filled streets of Essaouira offers tourists history, horses and fun
Welcome to Essaouira.
A city along the Atlantic coast of Morocco where the cats lounge, tourists shop and the wind seems push your forward, backwards and sideways.
I arrived after a six- or seven-hours bus ride. It was long haul but I did some reading. At least it was CTM, Morocco’s best private bus line. A few years ago, Moroccans felt this bus line was too expensive and exclusive so I often found myself among very few riders. Now, it has become quite popular —or maybe Morocco's disposable income has increased.
My goal for this trip was to use the library at the Dar Souiri conference center to do some research and discover new stories about Morocco for a book I am writing. But I found myself less at the library and more into discovering Essaouira’s cafes, yoga, horseback riding and the vast beaches of the region.
I jumped into a 4x4 with three friends (two I just met) and found myself in Sidi Kaouki, a popular beachfront just south of Essaouira. Sidi Kaouki is known for a masoleum which contains the remains of a marabout or saint who cared for and healed animals two centuries ago.
The first thing I noticed was the abundance of horsemen galloping along the shore.
The majority of Moroccan horses are in four categories: pure Arab, pure Berber, Arab-Berber and French. The French and pure Berber tend to be taller and quite robust. While the Arab and Arab mix are high strung and scary but less prone to kick you. I have kicked and thrown twice in the past two years. Not pleasant. But I like Arab-Berber mixes the best. I kept two Arab-Berber fillies in Azrou when times were better, but I had to sell them.
After a long swim in the ocean, I thought about an old friend who told me he owned a horse adventure camp near Essaouira. I chatted with some of the horsemen on the beach and asked if they knew Muhammad from Zagora. Of course, they did. I was in the right place so I reached out to him on my phone. And a half hour later, I was greeting my old friend Muhammad with a big hug. He surprised me by bringing another old friend, Ahmad, who helped me transport my horses from Zagora to Azrou. It was like coming home.
Muhammad speaks Amazigh and is a traditional Berber horseman. And I knew his story of struggle to maintain horses and build an equestrian adventure business. Now he has 16 horses and is booked for tourists throughout the year.
My friends were shocked that I arrived in a new place and locals were coming to greet me. Hell, I have been in Morocco for nine years. I know a wide range of people throughout this beautiful Kingdom. I don’t forget my friends. It is my nature as an old politico from New York.
A French guy named Malcolm told me about the best coffee experience place in Essaouira. I decided to go and try it out. Khawa Cafe is in the old medina which is the main destination of tourists from all over the world. In the medina, you can buy leather goods, beauty products, clothing and more. The restaurants are welcoming and the traditional food is so delicious.
At Khawa Cafe, I enjoyed a house blend (Brazil/India) allonge and later in the afternoon I took an espresso from Ethiopia. The Espresso machine was small but had a decent extraction capacity. It was quite enjoyable.
What I didn’t enjoy was the cats. In Essaouira, cats rule. They are all over the city. And in this nice little cafe lives a female cat with her recent liter. People love them so much and even stop to play with them.
I could not stand the faint smell of cat piss in the morning so I sat outside. Worse yet, I don’t like eating my food or drinking beverages with animals under foot begging for a lick. I don’t think I am being a snob or intolerant. Granted, I have eaten in some of the finest restaurants in the world, yet, I have also eaten with my hands in the deserts of Mauritania with Bedouins from the same bowl. I just want to eat my risq (daily provisions) in peace.
By afternoon I stopped smelling the cats and became like everyone else. I guess my nose turned off or maybe I just let go and enjoyed the space. Because the setting and environment of Khawa cafe is really cool and well designed. It is a great place to camp, write, read and eat.
The omelets, which were incredible, are served on round wooden palettes. I had some homemade juice made from the hibiscus flower which was made on site. And the two ladies cook with fresh rosemary, parsley and thyme, and ancient spices … Both were highly skilled in food preparation and watching them work in the open kitchen was a treat.
I spent most of my “working” time in the Khawa cafe. It was near Moga Yoga where I took two classes: pranayama breathing and hatha yoga. I needed this. And the instructor was absolutely amazing.
I have a barber in the old medina who reminds me of the first barber of my youth, Nick DeFazio. Dressed always in a tie, Ashraf presents himself as a gentleman and a professional he is.
Next time in Essaouira, I hope to actually spend my days in the Dar Souiri library where I feel more productive.
The sunsets are so glorious along the Atlantic Ocean. I can envision myself cantering full speed with a foamy steed under me and the dusky stars above. That is how we roll in the peaceable Cherifian Kingdom.
I went into a shop in Essaouira which sells beautiful hand blown glass vases, pitchers, tea glasses and more. The young lady inside was warm and welcoming and, in French, I asked her for her name. She said “pourquoi.” I raised my eyebrows, smiled and said “Ah Pourquoi, it is a pleasure to meet you.” I walked around the shop and upon leaving I said, “thank you so much, Pourquoi.”
Silly girl.